Day 1: Rolling Out from Klamath Falls
The first light hits Upper Klamath Lake as I roll out of town, legs fresh and spirit high. The bike feels heavy, packed with food and gear, but the promise of the Oregon Outback stretches ahead — 360 miles of gravel, rail trail, and remote forest roads leading all the way to the Columbia River.
After leaving pavement, I follow the OC&E Woods Line State Trail, once a railway, now a corridor of dust and sage. My first stop is Henzel’s Grocery in Sprague River, a classic small-town store with an old Coke sign and a friendly hello from behind the counter.
By evening, I camp near Beatty beneath a stand of pines. One truck passes, the sound fading quickly. The first night reminds me how vast Oregon really is.
Day 2: Through the Sage and Into Silver Lake
The next morning brings wind and wide horizons. Dust coats my shins as I ride through cattle country, a hawk tracing lazy circles overhead. Around noon, the road spills into Silver Lake, a one-street town that feels like a movie set. I stop at Silver Lake Café & Bar for a burger and conversation with ranchers swapping stories over black coffee.
As the afternoon heat climbs, the landscape opens into shimmering desert. I refill my bottles at a cattle trough and push on toward Fort Rock, where volcanic cliffs rise from the plain. I camp in their shadow under a violet sunset.
Day 3: From Fort Rock to La Pine and Prineville
Morning brings a pink glow over Fort Rock. I ride north through pine forest until the route dips into La Pine. Civilization feels strange after so much silence. At Harvest Depot Café, the pancakes arrive stacked and steaming. Locals ask about the route and shake their heads when I tell them where I started.
The trail climbs again into forest, then drops into the Crooked River Grasslands. The light is sharp, the gravel smooth. I camp near the canyon rim and fall asleep under a sky crowded with stars.
Day 4: Wind and Color in Brothers
Day four feels like the essence of the Oregon Outback. Wind in my face, empty road ahead, and nothing around but sky. The landscape becomes more painted and surreal as I reach Brothers, Oregon — a tiny stop on Highway 20 where The Feed Barn serves coffee and conversation.
The owner warns me about afternoon winds. She’s right. The last twenty miles into Prineville Reservoir are a fight. I camp by the water, shoes off, sipping the beer I carried all afternoon.
Day 5: The Descent to the Columbia
My legs are sore but strong now. The road rises through wheat country and then plunges into the Deschutes River canyon. The Columbia River appears at last, wide and silver in the sunlight. When I reach Deschutes River State Recreation Area, I set the bike down and walk to the water’s edge. The ride is complete.
There is no finish line. Just the quiet hum of the river and the satisfaction of having crossed an entire state by pedal power.