Three Islands, Three Days, Just Enough Time

Washington State Ferry approaching Anacortes terminal — Morning ferry hum, coffee steam, and the promise of island miles.

I went bikepacking in the San Juans because I needed quiet roads and salt air. The ferries make the days feel like chapters: roll on, breathe, roll off, explore. I kept it simple—45mm tires, a tiny stove, and a plan made out of tide charts and snack stops.

Day 1 — Lopez Warm-Up → San Juan Island (≈ 37 mi / 2,100 ft)

Lopez is the friendliest kind of warm-up: patchwork farms, little bays, and drivers who wave back. I spin easy past cedar fences and weathered mailboxes, then angle to the afternoon boat bound for San Juan Island. The ride into Friday Harbor is soft light and grocery smells—perfect for a quick resupply before I point west.

Lime Kiln Lighthouse above rocky shoreline on San Juan Island — Evening at Lime Kiln: swell shouldering into the rocks, wind teasing the pines.

I camp in the trees with the sound of water working the shoreline. Dinner is tortillas with peanut butter and apple slices—proof that hunger is the best spice.

Day 2 — Around San Juan → Orcas & Moran State Park (≈ 44 mi / 3,400 ft)

I circle the island on quiet ribbons of pavement and the occasional surprise hill, then catch the midday ferry to Orcas. The vibe changes immediately—tighter roads, bigger climbs, more trees. I thread into Moran State Park where the pavement turns to hush and the lake appears between trunks like polished stone.

Still water and forested banks at Cascade Lake in Moran State Park — Cascade Lake: a blue pause button for legs and brain.

With light left, I aim uphill. The climb toward Mount Constitution is steady—edge of the big ring, breathing like I mean it. The switchbacks trade lake glimpses for island mosaics until the road runs out at the stone tower.

Stone observation tower atop Mount Constitution with islands beyond — Mount Constitution: islands scattered like stepping stones across the Salish Sea.

I drop back to camp on cooling brakes, cook noodles, and fall asleep to loon calls stitched over the water.

Day 3 — Lakeside Rollout → Ferries Home (≈ 33 mi / 2,000 ft)

Morning is lake glass and oatmeal. I loiter on the shoreline, then weave out of Moran under cedar perfume and ferry timetables buzzing in my pocket. Orcas’ rollers keep me honest all the way to the dock. The boat back is a slow-motion transition: salt air thinning, cell bars blooming, legs humming with that good kind of fatigue.

Route Sketch

Anacortes → Lopez (counter-clockwise meander) → ferry to San Juan (Lime Kiln & west side) → ferry to Orcas (Moran, Cascade Lake, Mount Constitution) → ferry back to Anacortes. Build days around ferry times and the big climb; everything else is gravy.

Ferry wake pointing back toward the San Juan Islands — Wake lines and good tired legs—you know it was a proper trip.